Dax: Why European retirees are leaving Portugal for France

For years, Portugal was considered a dream destination for European retirees.

Now, attention is unexpectedly turning once again to a smaller town on France’s Atlantic coast.

Many older people who had originally planned to spend their retirement in Portugal’s sunshine are reassessing the figures. Rising property prices, the loss of tax advantages and uncertainty about future quality of life are prompting them to look elsewhere. One place in south-west France is attracting particular attention: Dax, a long-established spa town in the Landes department.

From tax haven back to the Atlantic coast

For more than a decade, Portugal attracted thousands of European retirees with a particularly favourable tax system. The so-called “non-habitual resident” status meant that many could receive their pensions almost tax-free. Anyone seeking a sunny flat at the time appeared to find ideal conditions in Lisbon, Porto or the Algarve.

That model is now looking increasingly uncertain. The special scheme is being phased out, newcomers receive very little benefit from it, while property prices have soared at the same time. Flats in popular coastal towns now cost as much as those in major western European cities. For retirees working with a fixed budget, the dream is simply becoming too expensive.

There is also growing disappointment. Pressure on healthcare systems in some areas, language barriers and higher living costs have tempered the initial enthusiasm. This creates an opportunity for destinations closer to home, with a familiar language and good value for money.

Dax: sunshine, proximity to the sea and lower prices

Dax is in south-west France, around a 30-minute drive from the Atlantic coast. The famous kilometres of beaches in the Landes are within easy reach, as is the Basque Country, including places such as Biarritz. Those who want to walk by the sea without living in an expensive coastal resort will find a peaceful alternative here.

Dax combines the charm of a spa town with proximity to the ocean and still-moderate property prices – a mix that is suddenly proving highly appealing to many retirees.

Unlike the Basque coastal strip, where prices have risen sharply in recent years, Dax remains noticeably more affordable. Analyses by French property associations indicate that the price per square metre can be only half that of sought-after seaside resorts. People selling a city flat to move somewhere larger or more accessible can often secure more living space in Dax for the same money.

Why the property market suits older people

• Lower purchase prices: Entering the market is easier, even with limited capital.
• Attractive rents: Those who do not wish to buy are more likely to find affordable rental flats than on the Basque coast.
• Accessible new builds: An increasing number of residential developments in and around Dax are designed specifically for older residents.
• Less competition from tourists: Compared with purely holiday-focused resorts, the market is less speculative.

For older people, this means they can make long-term plans without constantly worrying about steep rent rises or an overheated market.

A spa town specialising in health

Dax’s greatest asset lies in its water – more specifically, its thermal springs and therapeutic mud, for which the town is known throughout France. Dax is regarded as France’s leading spa town. More than 60,000 people use its thermal baths and specialist facilities every year, many of them with chronic joint or vascular conditions.

Rheumatism, osteoarthritis, back problems and circulatory disorders are among the common reasons patients come to the area. For many people, the combination of warm thermal water, mud treatments and medical supervision provides relief. For older people who need regular spa treatments, having a home in the town is a compelling advantage.

Anyone living in Dax has healthcare services on their doorstep, rather than having to organise long journeys for every spa treatment.

Benefits of living in a spa town

Everyday life in Dax is clearly shaped by health tourism. This offers retirees several advantages:

• a high concentration of specialist doctors and physiotherapy practices
• thermal baths and rehabilitation facilities with modern equipment
• infrastructure designed for people with limited mobility
• support services such as transport, assisted living and domestic help

People from central Europe may also feel more comfortable in a familiar healthcare system. Billing procedures, documentation and medical standards are similar to those in Germany, Austria and Switzerland.

Quality of life between the Adour, pine forests and the Atlantic

Beyond its medical appeal, Dax offers a relaxed yet active way of life. The town sits on the River Adour, which winds gently towards the sea. Walking paths, riverside promenades and small parks encourage daily outings – important for anyone wishing to stay active in later life without overdoing it.

The Landes region is renowned for its vast pine forests. Cycling, Nordic walking and gentle hiking are all readily available for people who enjoy being outdoors. Atlantic beaches are close by, whether for half a day by the sea or a simple winter walk along the shore.

There are also the characteristic pleasures of life in south-west France: weekly markets selling regional produce, local festivals and a lively network of clubs and associations. Retirees can make connections easily, whether through sporting activities for older people, language classes or cultural societies.

Close to larger cities

Dax is not located directly within a metropolitan area, but it has good transport links. Residents can reach Bayonne and Biarritz by train or car, with Bordeaux slightly further away. This broadens the options for:

• cultural and shopping trips
• specialist appointments at university hospitals
• visits from children and grandchildren arriving by train or plane

The distance to the German border is shorter than from many parts of Portugal. Those wishing to visit their original home regularly will spend less time on planes or in cars.

Who stands to benefit most from moving to Dax

Dax is not automatically the right fit for every retiree. However, some groups are particularly well suited to the local conditions:

• Older people with joint or vascular conditions: Regular spa treatments can be integrated into everyday life more easily.
• Couples on a limited budget: The more affordable property market makes a more comfortable flat or a house with a garden possible.
• People who do not want to leave central Europe completely: Cultural and linguistic proximity lowers the barrier to making the move.
• Active retirees: Those who enjoy moderate exercise, hiking, cycling or swimming will find ideal conditions.

At the same time, prospective residents should remember that Dax is not a large city. Anyone looking for a buzzing nightlife or constant big-city bustle will be in the wrong place. Daily life is quieter and often more unhurried – precisely what many people value after a long working life.

What future expatriates should consider

Anyone seriously considering a move to Dax should examine several points carefully. These include tax matters, legal requirements and health insurance arrangements. Advice centres in Germany and France can help clarify which entitlements remain and which forms are required.

A longer trial stay is a practical idea. Spending one to three months in a holiday flat or furnished rental provides a realistic impression: What does everyday life feel like? How well does the climate suit you? How do interactions with doctors, pharmacies and public authorities work?

Anyone who does not speak French should plan to learn at least the basics. Although many service providers are used to older visitors, most communication takes place in French. Local language courses can make the transition easier and help people establish social contacts more quickly.

A thermal paradise with future potential

With its focus on health, moderate tourism and retired visitors, Dax is in a relatively stable position. The trend for European retirees to look beyond traditional emigration countries and consider new destinations is likely to continue. Rising living costs and a degree of disillusionment following the first emigration boom are leading to fresh decisions.

This town in south-west France could benefit from precisely that development in the years ahead. Anyone seeking a quiet but well-connected place to live, where health, the sea and affordable housing come together, may take a closer look at Dax on the map – and perhaps discover that it offers more than just warm water and therapeutic mud.